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FIRST at the Turkish Cypriot checkpoint at 7.30am yesterday was Fikrit Ahmet Mavroupi, a Turkish Cypriot pensioner from Potamia. Carrying a plastic bag containing several packets of Cyprus coffee, she marched up and handed in her Greek Cypriot ID. They ignored her.

“I just want to go and see my sick grandchild,” she said, sitting down to wait and see what would happen next. People were crossing, but only those who had obtained permission previously. It was the first day of the Muslim feast of Bayram and Turkish Cypriots whose names were on the daily list, mainly for medical treatment, headed for the Greek Cypriot checkpoint. Maronites also continued to cross freely.

The first Greek Cypriots on the scene were driving instructor Iacovos Nikitaras and his wife Maria, both originally from Kyrenia but now living in Pallouriotissa. Nikitaras showed both his ID and passport to a Turkish Cypriot 'police officer' who shook his head and said: “Not today”.

Apparently the deal was off. The Turkish Cypriot side was not yet ready.

“They told me tomorrow or the day after,” Nikitaras said, adding that he would try again. “I have already waited 29 years,” the 48-year-old added.

Shortly afterwards a high-ranking and unsmiling Turkish Cypriot official appeared, and suddenly the deal was back on. By this time around 30 Greek Cypriots had arrived at the checkpoint, but they were in for a long wait. Nikitaras rejoined the queue. He was not bothered about having to show his passport.

“My desire to go to Kyrenia is far greater than my aversion to showing my passport,” he said.

“The politicians are saying this is a step backwards, not forwards, and they are trying to discourage people from going,” said Paschalis Nicolaou, 51. “I'm not trying to make politics. As a Cypriot I believe this country is for everyone to visit where they want.”

Meanwhile, Turkish Cypriots were gathering in droves on the other side, and by 9.30am Hassan Pala, 48, an artist, was on his way. Delightedly waving his passport and ID card, he headed for the government-controlled areas.

“I'm the first to go to the Greek side,” said the Turkish Cypriot, who was born in Paphos. “I'm going everywhere to visit my country. I'm going to my village. I feel very great. This is my first time.”The first Greek Cypriot to cross was Christos Michael at 11am, four hours after Iacovos Nikitaras handed in his passport. Michael rushed off to see Varosha without waiting to talk to reporters. As he waved his white 'visa' slip, Michael was greeted with loud applause from the long queue of Turkish Cypriots waiting to check in at the Turkish Cypriot side.

Nikitaras jumped into his van, after paying £3 for a day's motor insurance, and took three journalists along with him. “I am very happy,” he told the Cyprus Mail.

By this time the atmosphere was one of cautious festivity. Mingling together, it was hard to distinguish Greek from Turkish Cypriots as they chatted in Greek or English, swapping names and places.

“We are all Cypriots here,” said one Greek Cypriot to a Turkish Cypriot who heartily agreed. Many Greek Cypriots were picked up by Turkish Cypriot friends and vice versa on the other side of the Green Line.

At 'UN Nick' coffee shop at the Ledra Palace, they sat together, all saying how good it was. One Turkish Cypriot took off for the town centre on his bicycle and was waved off by a Greek Cypriot wishing him a happy sightseeing tour.

There were references throughout the day, especially among the foreign media, to the Berlin Wall. But only time will tell.



Keeping a head count

Trying to keep a head count throughout the day wasn't easy. At the Greek Cypriot end police were deluged with people queuing up four-deep. Turkish Cypriots at their end were being processed quickly, and by 9.15am 30 had been cleared to cross. It was almost another two hours before the first Greek Cypriot was able to cross into the north because the Turkish Cypriots were simply not prepared, and the fact that it was a public holiday, Bayram, didn't help. By midday more than 120 Turkish Cypriots had been cleared by the Greek side and had crossed into the south. I entered the office processing Greek Cypriot passports and encountered the same stern Turkish Cypriot who had earlier issued the instruction to start accepting passports. He told me in English that he didn't speak either English or Greek, when I asked for numbers of people who had crossed the line. Pushing my luck a little I repeated the request, and he answered: “Seventy-four.” The irony of the number was lost on him."